Palani Malai
‘Palani Murugan Temple’ is one of the most famous Murugan temples in India. It is located in the township of Palani, 100 km west of Madurai, and near the famous hill station, Kodaikanal.
It is one of the major Arupadaiveedu of Lord Muruga. The other Arupadiveedus are Tiruchendur (100 km south-west of Madurai), Swamimalai (150 km east of Madurai), Tiruttani (50 km from Chennai), Pazhamudircholai (10 km north of Madurai) and Tiruparamkunram (10 km south of Madurai).
The Legend of the Palani Temple
According to legend, Sage Narada once visited the divine court of Lord Shiva at Mount Kailash. Lord Shiva was with his consort, Goddess Shakti, and their two children, Lord Ganesha and Lord Subrahmanya. Sage Narada gave Lord Shiva a mango fruit and told him that it was a special fruit, the fruit of wisdom.
Lord Shiva wanted his children to have the fruit of wisdom. However, when he offered it to them, Sage Narada asked that the mango not to be cut in two to be shared between the two sons, lest the power be diminished. Now, as a result, they had to decide who should have it. Shiva and Shakti decided that the son who first circles the Earth would get the fruit. Immediately accepting the challenge, Lord Murugan, started his journey around the globe on his divine vehicle, the peacock or mayil.
Lord Ganesha, who believed that his parents were his world, circumambulated Lord Shiva and Goddess Shakti and claimed the mango fruit. Lord Subrahmanya returned to Mount Kailash, only to find that Lord Ganesha had already won the contest. Lord Murugan felt he had been deceived and decided to leave Mount Kailasam. He reached to top of what is today called “Pazhani malai” (the Hill of Pazhani) and set up his abode there.
Goddess Shakti and Lord Shiva rushed to the hill and tried to pacify their son, calling him, Gnana Pazham Nee appa (in Tamil, “you are the fruit – Pazham; of wisdom – Gnana”). Hence this place came to be called Pazhani, or Palani.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Palani is home to one of the most sacred shrines of the God Subrahmanyan, as worshipped in the Hindu cult of
Koumaram. The Dhandayudhapani Temple dedicated to Lord Murugan, and regarded one of his
Arupadai Veedu (Six Battle Camps), is situated here. The temple situated atop the Sivagiri is small but attracts a flood of devotees from all over the country. The architecture of the temple appears to be of the
Pandya school. The
Garbagriham is surmounted by a gold
gopuram, most admirably worked. Steps are hewn into the rock, besides a wide path meant for the ascent of elephants, up the hill. In addition, a
funicular railway with three tracks and a
rope way have been provided more recently for the comfort of the pilgrims.
In keeping with the traditions of all temples of the God Subrahmanyan, another temple is dedicated to his worship near the foot of the Sivagiri. It goes by the name of
Thiru Avinankudi, and is remarkable for the exquisite appearance of the chief deity besides other sculptures.
Besides this, right at the foot of the Sivagiri is a small shrine dedicated to the god
Ganapathi, where he goes by the name
Pada Vinayakar. It is common amongst the pilgrims to pay their obeisances at this shrine before commencing their ascent of the hill to worship the Lord Subrahmanyan. A particular offering here is the breaking of coconuts, by flinging them against an enclosed stone before the shrine, of which many hundreds are broken by the devotees in the course of a day.
Within the town is another temple dedicated to the Goddess
Parvathi as
Periyanayaki Amman. It popularly goes by the name of the
Oorkovil - the town's chief temple. A particularly intriguing aspect of the temple is that, although it is referred to as the temple of
Periyanayaki Amman, the central sanctum, the sanctum of supreme honour in Hindu temple architecture, is accorded to the Lord Subrahmanyan. The temple is large in expanse and displays an interesting blend of Pandya and Nayaka architecture. A tradition associated with the temple is that, formerly, a subterranean passage connected it with the Periya Avudaiyar temple some distance from the town, and was used to convey the idols under a peculiar circumstance of duress - when a Nawab attacked; however, beyond the fact, obvious from his title, that he was a Muslim, nothing is known of the Nawab or of his attack. Some evidence may be said to exist of an attack since some of the sculptures in the Nayaka mandapam in front of the temple have their limbs missing.
A short distance from the town is a temple dedicated to Shiva as
Periya Avudaiyar. This temple, located right on the banks of the Shanmugha Nadi, is situated in particularly peaceful environs far-removed from the bustle of the town.
Near the Periya Nayaki Amman temple are two others - the
Mariyamman Temple and the
Perumal Temple. The former is particularly resorted to in times of epidemics, the goddess there being regarded as the protectress against illnesses.
The Kannadi Perumal Temple, dedicated to Vishnu, is a small temple situated on a hillock 9 km south of Palani, a short distance from the highway to Kodaikanal. The name of the temple is derived from its tradition that the presiding deity of the temple wards off the effects of
dhrishti, a Sanskritic term which may be held to mean 'casting an evil eye'. One of the practices of the devotees of the temple is to bring the first-born calves of their cows to the temple seeking the deity's blessing, as the protector of cattle. On account of its secluded location it is not resorted to by many.
-------------------------------------------------------------
The Hill Temple of Palani is one of the most famous temples of Murugan in India. It is located in the town of Palani, 100 km southeast of Coimbatore and a similar distance northwest of Madurai, and in the foot-hills of the eponymous Palni Hills. At its foot is the Temple of Thiru-avinan-kudi, one of the Arupadaiveedu.
Mythology
Sage
Narada once visited the celestial court of Lord
Shiva at
Mount Kailash to present to Him a fruit, the
gyana-pazham (literally, the fruit of knowledge), that held in it the elixir of wisdom.
Upon Lord Shiva expressing his intention of dividing the fruit between his two sons,
Ganesha and
Karthikeya, the Sage counselled Him against cutting it. Thereat, He decided to award it to whichever of his two sons first circled the world thrice. Accepting the challenge, the Lord Karthikeya started his journey around the globe on his sacred bird, the peacock.
However, Lord Ganesha, who surmised that the world was no more than his parents Shiva and
Shakti, circumambulated them. Pleased with their son's discernment, Lord Shiva awarded the fruit to Lord Ganesha. When the Lord Subrahmanya returned, he was furious to learn that his efforts had been in vain. In deep dudgeon, he decided to leave Mount Kailash, and take up his abode in a place where the land and people would be unequivocally his and for him. Thus, it was that He came to what is today known as
Palani, a name derived from the manner of His Parents trying to mollify him and prevail upon him to return to Kailash -
Gnana Pazham Nee appa (Tamil for "You are the fruit of wisdom sire")and thus, implying that being the embodiment of wisdom, he had no need for the fruit. Thus, being the abode of wisdom, the place took on its master's name -
Pazham Nee or Pazhani, anglicised as Palani.
Legends of the Temple
Going by legend, the idol of the Lord Muruga in Palani , was created and consecrated by the Sage Bhogar, one of Hinduism's eighteen great ascetics (
siddhas), out of an amalgam of nine poisons or
navapashanam. The legend also holds that, since it was a quick-setting paste, the sculptor had to work very rapidly to chisel its features, but that he spent so much time in creating the exquisitely beatific face, he did not have time to bestow but a rough grace upon the rest of the body, thus explaining the contrast between the artistic perfection of the face and the slightly less accomplished work upon the body.
A shrine to Bhogar exists in the southwestern corridor of the temple, which, by legend, is said to be connected by a subterranean tunnel to a cave in the heart of the hill, where Bhogar continues to meditate and maintain his vigil, with eight idols of the Lord.
Another legend holds that the idol, after centuries of worship, fell into neglect and was suffered to be engulfed by the forest. One night,
Cheraman Perumal, a King of the
Cheras, who controlled the area between the second and fifth centuries A.D., wandered from his hunting party and was forced to take refuge at the foot of the hill. It so befell, that the Lord Subrahmanyan, appeared to him in a dream, and ordered him to restore the idol to its former state. The king, thereat, awakening, commenced a search for the idol, and finding it, constructed the temple that now houses it, and re-instituted its worship. This is commemorated by a small
stela at the foot of the staircase that winds up the hill.
The Idol
As related above, the idol is said to be made of an amalgam of nine substances, and placed upon a pedestal of stone, with an archway framing it. It represents the god
Subrahmanya in the form He assumed at Palani - that of a very young recluse, shorn of his locks and all his finery, dressed in no more than a loincloth and armed only with a staff, the
dhandam, as befits a monk. It is from His youthful appearance and the staff He bears, that the appellation
Bāla-dhandāyudha-pāni, meaning the young wielder of the staff-weapon, is applied to Him.
One curious aspect of the idol is that it faces west rather than east, the traditional direction at most Hindu temples. This is held to be on account of the temple having been re-consecrated by the Cheras, whose dominions lay to the west, and the guardian of whose eastern frontier was supposed to be the Lord Kartikeya of Palani. Another fact that will be remarked upon by any observer, are the rather disproportionately large ears the Lord is endowed with. This is reflective of the faith that the Lord listens carefully to each of his many devotees' prayers and requests.
Housed in the
garbhagriham, the
sanctum sanctorum, of the temple, the idol may be approached and handled only by the temple's priests, who are members of the
Gurukkal community of Palani, and hold hereditary rights of sacerdotal worship at the temple. Other devotees are permitted to come up to the sanctum, while the priests' assistants, normally of the
Pandāram community, are allowed up to the ante-chamber of the sanctum sanctorum.
The Temple
The Temple is situated upon the higher of the two hills of Palani, known as the Sivagiri. Traditionally, access to it was by the main staircase cut into the hill-side or by the
yanai-padhai or elephant's path, used by the ceremonial elephants. Pilgrims bearing water for the ritual bathing of the idol, and the priests, would use another way also carved into the hill-side but on the opposite side. Over the past half-century, three
funicular railway tracks have been laid up the hill for the convenience of the pigrims, and supplemented by a rope-way within the past decade.
The
sanctum of the temple is of early
Chera architecture while the covered ambulatory that runs around it bears unmistakable traces of
Pandya influence, especially in the form of the two fishes, the Pandyan royal insignia. The walls of the
sanctum bear extensive inscriptions in the old Tamil script. Surmounting the
sanctum, is a
gopuram of gold, with numerous sculptures of the presiding deity,
Kartikeya, and gods and goddesses attendant upon him.
In the first inner
prahāram, or ambulatory, around the heart of the temple, are two minor shrines, one each, to Shiva and Parvati, besides one to the Sage Bhogar who is by legend credited with the creation and consecration of the chief idol. In the second outer
prahāram, is a celebrated shrine to
Ganapati, besides the carriage-house of the Lord's Golden Chariot.
Worship
The most esteemed form of worship at the temple is the
abhishekam - anointment of the idol with oils, sandalwood paste, milk, unguents and the like and then bathing it with water in an act of ritual purification. The most prominent abhishekams are conducted at the ceremonies to mark the hours of the day. These are four in number - the
Vizha Poojai, early in the morning, the
Ucchikālam, in the afternoon, the
Sāyarakshai, in the evening and the
Rakkālam, at night, immediately prior to the temple being closed for the day. These hours are marked by the tolling of the heavy bell on the hill, to rouse the attention of all devotees to the worship of the lord being carried out at that hour. On a quiet day, the bell can be heard in all the countryside around Palani.
After the abhishekam, it is the practice to dress the idol of the Lord, in an act called
alangaram, in one of several guises - the most common being the
Raja, or king, the
Vaitheekan, or priest, the
Vedan, or hunter and the
Aandi, or monk, which last is the most celebrated in Palani, because it is the nearest to the natural form the Lord assumed at Palani as an anchorite, having withdrawn from all the celestial riches of his father's court at
Mount Kailash.
In addition to worship within the precincts of the temple, an idol of the Lord, called the
Uthsavamoorthy, is also carried in state around the temple, in a golden chariot, drawn by devotees, most evenings in a year.
Traditions
One of the chief traditions of the temple, is the tonsuring of devotees, who vow to discard their hair in imitation of the Lord of Palani. Another is the anointing of the head of the God's idol with
chandaṇam, or sandalwood paste, at night, prior to the temple being closed for the day. The paste, upon being allowed to stay overnight, is said to acquire medicinal properties, and is much sought after and distributed to devotees, as
rakkāla chandaṇam.
Traditionally, the hill-temple of Palani is supposed to be closed in the afternoon and rather early in the evening to permit the Lord to have adequate sleep, being but a child, and therefore, easily tired by the throngs of devotees and their constant importunations.
A tradition that is not very well-known is that of the
Paḷḷi-Arai or bedroom, wherein, each night, the Lord is informed of the status of the temple's accounts for the day, by the custodians of the temple, and then put to sleep to the singing of an
ōdhuvār or bard.
Festivals
Besides regular services, days sacred to the god Subrahmanyan are celebrated with pomp and splendour every year, and are attended by throngs of devotees from all over South India. Some of these festivals are the
Thai-Poosam,
Pankuni-Uthram, the
Vaikhashi-Vishakham and the
Soora-Samharam.
Thai-Poosam, which is considered, by far, the most important festival at Palani, is celebrated on the full moon day of the Tamil Month of
Thai (15 January-15 February). Pilgrims after first having taken a strict vow of abstinence, come barefoot, by walk, from distant towns and villages. Many pilgrims also bring a litter of wood, called a
Kāvadi, borne on their shoulders, in commemoration of the act of the demon
Hidumba who is credited by legend with bringing the two hills of Palani to their present location, slung upon his shoulders in a similar fashion. Others bring pots of sanctified water, known as
theertha-kāvadi, for the priests to conduct the
abhishekam on the holy day. Traditionally, the most honoured of the pilgrims, whose arrival is awaited with anticipation by all and sundry, are the people of
Karaikudi, who bring with them the diamond-encrusted
vél or javelin, of the Lord from His temple at Karaikudi.
Controversy
Over the years, some believe that the idol has been wearing away or dissolving, by virtue of its repeated anointment and ritual bathing. However, long-time devotees and priests of the temple maintain that they perceive no visible change.
Since Hinduism forbids the worship of an imperfect idol, suggestions have been made, at various points of time, to replace it, cover it, or stop some of the rituals, which could have resulted in its erosion.
A new 100 kg idol was consecrated on January 27, 2004, but coming under severe criticism from orthodox believers, was displaced and worship of the existing idol restored, shortly thereafter.
Poojas
Darshan (meaning open to the public) hours are from 6.00 a.m. to 8.00 p.m. On festival days the temple opens at 4.30 a.m.
- Vilaa Pooja (6.30 a.m.)
- Siru Kall Pooja (8.00 a.m.)
- Kaala Santhi (9.00 a.m.)
- Utchikkala Pooja (12.00 noon)
- Raja Alankaram (5.30 p.m.)
- Iraakkaala Puja (8.00 p.m.)
- Golden Car Darshan (6.30 p.m.)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Height of the Hill Temple : 150 M
Total no. of Steps : 693
Direction the Temple : Towards WEST
Pragaram around the Hill(Giriveethi) : 2.4 KM
Palani Rob Car